Warm the butter in the bottom of a Dutch oven set over medium-low heat. When the butter releases its foam, toss in the sliced leek and fennel. Sprinkle the aromatics with salt, and let them sweat, covered and stirring occasionally, until soft and tender - about 8 minutes.
Uncover the pot, pour in the wine and fish stock, and then add the potatoes. Turn up the heat to medium-high and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Drop the salmon into the pot, cover, and allow it to continue simmering until the fish is opaque and cooked through, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the cream and dill. Salt the chowder as it suits you, and then ladle into soup bowls.

~Six servings
2 tablespoons butter
2 medium leeks (white and light-green parts only, sliced thin)
1 bulb fennel (cored and sliced thin)
1 teaspoon finely ground real salt
½ cup white wine
30 ounces fish stock
1 pound red potatoes (quartered)
1 ½ pounds wild-caught salmon fillets (skin removed and chopped into pieces)
½ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

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